Okay, quick hit: I'm back, it was awesome, I ate a whole skewer of cow hearts off a cart in the street (it was delicious...the hearts, not the street), and I seem to have developed a taste for the supernaturally coloured Inka Kola.
I took about 280 pictures, so with apologies for sending you off-site, here is the set on Flickr. Please enjoy.
It was only about 10 days, not long enough, but I highly recommend Peru as a travel destination, especially if you can wrangle to go there during the low season when prices are lower. If you speak Spanish, it could not be an easier trip.
Here's my breathless, bad ass at the ruins of Sillustani (not Machu Picchu or Lake Titicaca). It is an accurate representation of the clearness of the sky, the stillness of the water, and the "wearing all black"ness of myself:
So incredibly beautiful!